THE PILGRIMS' PROGRESS - DAY 4

9 May
Our two peddling Pilgrims had a more than acceptable dinner, in the convivial company of seven walking Pilgrims, at the gite last evening and were comatose as soon as they hit their beds. The walkers comprised of two nuclear scientists and one Caterpillar engine designer with their respective wives and one lone Frenchman from the Cote d'Azur. The group of six were also French. Dinner was served on the terrace, as was breakfast this morning. A good time was had by all nine Pilgrims.
Paul and Ben are giving the distinct impression that the gites d'etape (hostels) are in a category not equivalent to, but far better than, an English Four Star Hotel!
Refreshed and bushy tailed they heaved their derrieres back on to their saddles at 9.25am today, only to have the wind taken out of their sails by an immediate 2km "hellish" ascent - achieved in 23 minutes. This was followed by a rapid, 9km descent which was rail-roaded in 15 minutes. The roads then converged and there were shouts and waves exchanged with their six French pals from last night as they passed by (not sure whether the walkers overtook the pedallers, or vice versa).
Paul and Ben spent an hour and a half in Conques which, they said, was the most perfect town yet on their journey. They purchased their staple lunch provisions of bread, cheese and coca cola and, reluctant to leave Conques, pedalled onwards to the town of Figeac on the river Cele. Whilst cycling along the gorge of the Cele, they were spellbound when the gorge suddenly and unexpectedly opened out into a large valley, which gave them the most beautiful vista with a limestone escarpment. Built into the escarpment/cliff face were the houses and Church of St Sulpice village.
A memorable and fantastic day culminated at Marcilhac-sur-Cele with 56 miles pedalled by two very happy and elated Pilgrims. They have taken residence in a very large, old house and, if anyone really wants to know, they have the luxury of two large single beds in a large room - which, apparently, they prefer to dormitories ...... I can't think why!

As each day progresses, more and more Pilgrims are gathering on the route - each with his or her own personal reason for walking/cycling The Path To Saint James (Santiago de Compostela is home to the relics of St James - one of Christ's Disciples) and all are driven, as with our two Pilgrims, by their own sense of purpose and need for fulfilment.

I think that it will be almost impossible for Paul and Ben to put into words, to all of us here, the impact and emotional effect on their lives that this indescribable atmospheric, uplifting and very special Pilgrimage is generating - not only upon our two pedalling Pilgrims, but also upon all those travelling along this extraordinary, reflective and wonderful journey.

Jenny