THE PILGRIMAGE - DAY 12

17 May - THE PYRENEES CONQUERED

Although Paul and Ben did not ascend to the altitude of one or two of the mountains that they had overcome in France, the route that they took today was the steepest and slowest that they have encountered - averaging 5km per hour. As an example of the generosity and kindness that both Pedallers have been shown throughout their journey, the lady at the b & b last night informed our duo that not only had she arranged to have all their luggage taken to Roncesvalles today, but she had also booked them in to a 'hotel posada' for tonight and would not take any remuneration for her gesture. She was adamant that, in view of the climb today, the lack of luggage would enhance their performance. They assured me tonight that she was absolutely correct! Two Dutch cycling Pilgrims were most definitely severely impaired by their luggage - even though it was lightweight. Their ascent was extremely arduous and slow.
This morning our boys enjoyed a flamboyant display by the local fire brigade of their equipment, uniforms and vehicles - French firemen strutting their stuff with their hoses!
Paul and Ben proceeded to embark upon one of the most scenic rides that they have undertaken to date, only to find themselves immersed in clouds and very cold weather 2km from the summit. This, of course, impaired what would have been some breathtaking views for miles around. There was a complete lack of visibility for a long while and then, when Paul and Ben finally emerged the clouds, they could only describe what confronted them as 'complete and utter mayhem'! They had arrived in Roncesvalles in the middle of a religious festival and the town was a solid, heaving mass of locals and pilgrims. It was 1.30pm and our pedallers could not reach their posada for two hours - but loved every minute of it, including a sighting of their little Asian lady who continues her Pilgrimage in 'striding out' mode. What a remarkable lady!
They attended Mass in the Church (attached to the monastery) at 6pm - a Service that was also attended by many, many Pilgrims of every nationality filling the Church to it's capacity. Ben and Paul are experiencing inexplicable emotional and uplifting moments at every turn on this wonderful Route of St James.
Following the service, they partook in a Pilgrims' evening meal (9 Euros and delicious) at the Posada - joining other multi-national Pilgrims in convivial, fascination and entertaining conversation.

I am unbelievably envious.

790km to Santiago de Compostela (there's a sign in Roncesvalles)

Jenny with apologies for absolutely no knowledge of the miles achieved today.