Pilgrimage Day 22 - Time Out!!

Ben's opening remark tonight was 'we didn't get up the hill'. Apparently both our pilgrims were unable to get up the energy to tackle the ascent and so (wisely) stopped at the bottom of the climb in a lovely little village of Vega de Valcarce having still travelled 32 miles. They stopped riding at about 13:30 and started at 09:30 with a headwind all day.
Having to pedal going DOWNHILL gives an indication of the effort needed to pedal uphill! The problem is that when you are in a valley or gorge the wind funnels down it and it is weird because even when there is no wind there is still a wind pressure and when going down hill with no wind you still have to pedal.
Ben went to bed at 3pm today and slept for two hours in a super place with twin beds and shower. An advantage of stopping early is that you are guaranteed a decent bed for the night! That was after he had done is washing outside in a rub a dub dub tub sink, and has got it dry on the line.
Paul mentioned Refugio's (?) that he refuses to stay in. They are basically dorms with anything from 50 to 150+ beds in them, you have to queue to use the showers, the toilet and anything else. Food is not always provided either. At 65 he says that the 'adventurer' in him has gone and if he was a lot younger he may have used them but he now needs to be able to crash out in peace and Ben needed to today. An Irish that they met said she would rather sleep under a hedgerow that use one! You also don't know what other people are carrying/have got...
The first lady they asked owned a bread shop with a six room 'B&B' opposite. You can tell that a village like this relies entirely on the Pilgrims, without who there would be no income at all. They had a 9E Pilgrim meal (including the free bottle of wine!) which was lovely. Ben says that asking for a Coke is impossible as they can't understand that you would be willing to pay for it.
Ben's opinion of the day is that Ben didn't particularly enjoy it, it has been a 'Ben's been a pain the the arse day!
They are now out of the harsh burnt landscape and into more greener scenery and where they have a bit of soil they really look after it.
Paul takes over the commentary and says that they have 120 miles left and once they are over the hill tomorrow, which is 5km long and they are still on target to arrive in Santiago on Friday or Saturday.
Once they have made the climb there is a 12Km descent which they have to be careful with and stop regularly to allow their rims to cool down. Paul's problem with the bursting tyre was due to his brakes being misaligned and they were rubbing on the tyre wall causing it to overheat and wear - problem now fixed so the descent tomorrow will be safer!
This is the hardest of the climbs (even over the Pyrenees) and once they are over it they will leave mountains behind and have to contend with a few hills. Yesterdays hill was the highest but tomorrows will be the steepest.
On the way today they were a little confused and were consulting the maps when a police motorbike stopped and a very helpful Spanish policeman gave them directions - in English! A marked difference to the policeman in France eh Paul? People have been very nice and helpful and even not being able to speak the language they have been able to communicate. There has been no animosity to pilgrim's and some 80-100,000 people pass through here each year as all the roads are converging onto the one road into Santiago.
Paul says that things are now one blur in that they can't remember what was where, what happened where or where they have stayed when (even last night!).
Paul says that arriving at Santiago will be euphoric but he is worried that after that there will be an anti-climax and them asking the question 'What now?' A suggestion is to cycle home!
Well that's about it for tonight, despite a bit of a disappointing day they are both in good spirits and are probably recharging their batteries in preparation for the long climb tomorrow - we can only wish them good luck and I hope to be able to report success on the blog tomorrow.

Malcolm