9 May
Our two peddling Pilgrims had a more than acceptable dinner, in the convivial company of seven walking Pilgrims, at the gite last evening and were comatose as soon as they hit their beds. The walkers comprised of two nuclear scientists and one Caterpillar engine designer with their respective wives and one lone Frenchman from the Cote d'Azur. The group of six were also French. Dinner was served on the terrace, as was breakfast this morning. A good time was had by all nine Pilgrims.
Paul and Ben are giving the distinct impression that the gites d'etape (hostels) are in a category not equivalent to, but far better than, an English Four Star Hotel!
Refreshed and bushy tailed they heaved their derrieres back on to their saddles at 9.25am today, only to have the wind taken out of their sails by an immediate 2km "hellish" ascent - achieved in 23 minutes. This was followed by a rapid, 9km descent which was rail-roaded in 15 minutes. The roads then converged and there were shouts and waves exchanged with their six French pals from last night as they passed by (not sure whether the walkers overtook the pedallers, or vice versa).
Paul and Ben spent an hour and a half in Conques which, they said, was the most perfect town yet on their journey. They purchased their staple lunch provisions of bread, cheese and coca cola and, reluctant to leave Conques, pedalled onwards to the town of Figeac on the river Cele. Whilst cycling along the gorge of the Cele, they were spellbound when the gorge suddenly and unexpectedly opened out into a large valley, which gave them the most beautiful vista with a limestone escarpment. Built into the escarpment/cliff face were the houses and Church of St Sulpice village.
A memorable and fantastic day culminated at Marcilhac-sur-Cele with 56 miles pedalled by two very happy and elated Pilgrims. They have taken residence in a very large, old house and, if anyone really wants to know, they have the luxury of two large single beds in a large room - which, apparently, they prefer to dormitories ...... I can't think why!
As each day progresses, more and more Pilgrims are gathering on the route - each with his or her own personal reason for walking/cycling The Path To Saint James (Santiago de Compostela is home to the relics of St James - one of Christ's Disciples) and all are driven, as with our two Pilgrims, by their own sense of purpose and need for fulfilment.
I think that it will be almost impossible for Paul and Ben to put into words, to all of us here, the impact and emotional effect on their lives that this indescribable atmospheric, uplifting and very special Pilgrimage is generating - not only upon our two pedalling Pilgrims, but also upon all those travelling along this extraordinary, reflective and wonderful journey.
Jenny
Saturday, 9 May 2009
Friday, 8 May 2009
THE PILGRIMAGE - DAY 3
8 May
Ben and Paul were only too aware, when they commenced cycling this morning, that the 7km ascent was imminent and it was an arduous 55 minute climb before they reached the summit at 1340 metres. The descent, however, was swift but very cold and marred by rain.
They indulged their stomachs with lunch in the very lovely town of Estaing and then cycled through the gorge of the River Lot. They both agreed that the scenery on this particular route and along the river Lot was more beautiful than that of the Loire - bearing in mind that they were cycling alongside the river and the direction of the wind gave them the perfect opportunity to take in the scenery at a much more leisurely pace.
BUT, THEN A BLIP - THEY LOST THEIR BEARINGS, admitted to bad map reading and finally had to cycle up "a bloody great and steep hill" (Quote - Paul. Alas, Ben's renowned misuse of the English language has finally rubbed off on his cycling buddy). It was the first time that they had both dismounted simultaneously and walked 2 - 3 km up the ....hill. When they reached the summit, they could see the correct route to take them onwards to tonight's 'pit stop' - the village of Senergues (10km from Congues), where they are staying in a very acceptable gite d'etape (hostel).
Two extremely tired pedallers tonight who couldn't wait to get some sleep and rest their weary bodies in preparation for the ...... hills that await them tomorrow.
Jenny
Ben and Paul were only too aware, when they commenced cycling this morning, that the 7km ascent was imminent and it was an arduous 55 minute climb before they reached the summit at 1340 metres. The descent, however, was swift but very cold and marred by rain.
They indulged their stomachs with lunch in the very lovely town of Estaing and then cycled through the gorge of the River Lot. They both agreed that the scenery on this particular route and along the river Lot was more beautiful than that of the Loire - bearing in mind that they were cycling alongside the river and the direction of the wind gave them the perfect opportunity to take in the scenery at a much more leisurely pace.
BUT, THEN A BLIP - THEY LOST THEIR BEARINGS, admitted to bad map reading and finally had to cycle up "a bloody great and steep hill" (Quote - Paul. Alas, Ben's renowned misuse of the English language has finally rubbed off on his cycling buddy). It was the first time that they had both dismounted simultaneously and walked 2 - 3 km up the ....hill. When they reached the summit, they could see the correct route to take them onwards to tonight's 'pit stop' - the village of Senergues (10km from Congues), where they are staying in a very acceptable gite d'etape (hostel).
Two extremely tired pedallers tonight who couldn't wait to get some sleep and rest their weary bodies in preparation for the ...... hills that await them tomorrow.
Jenny
THE PILGRIMAGE - AN ADDITION TO DAY 2
8 May
Before commencing today's blog, Paul and Ben have asked that I mention a Dutchman who shared their 'four man' dormitory last night. This is a man who has made an indelible impression upon our pedallers. He is 66 years of age and is walking from Rotterdam, Holland, on his own extaordinary and very special Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela - with a backpack weighing 22 kilos and walking an average of 40-50 km per day. To date, on his journey, there have only been two occasions when he has paid for a bed overnight. A welcome awaits him, combined with an offer of free accommodation, from families along his route - whenever and wherever he knocks on a door.
He is on his 6th walk to Santiago de Compostela and has a 90 year old father at home who is dying of cancer. The Dutchman and his family know that his father is awaiting his son's return to Rotterdam from Santiago de Compostela before he dies. 'The Walking Pilgrim' has inherited his father's faith, tenacity and courage.
The Dutchman will never be forgotten by Ben and Paul.
Jenny
Before commencing today's blog, Paul and Ben have asked that I mention a Dutchman who shared their 'four man' dormitory last night. This is a man who has made an indelible impression upon our pedallers. He is 66 years of age and is walking from Rotterdam, Holland, on his own extaordinary and very special Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela - with a backpack weighing 22 kilos and walking an average of 40-50 km per day. To date, on his journey, there have only been two occasions when he has paid for a bed overnight. A welcome awaits him, combined with an offer of free accommodation, from families along his route - whenever and wherever he knocks on a door.
He is on his 6th walk to Santiago de Compostela and has a 90 year old father at home who is dying of cancer. The Dutchman and his family know that his father is awaiting his son's return to Rotterdam from Santiago de Compostela before he dies. 'The Walking Pilgrim' has inherited his father's faith, tenacity and courage.
The Dutchman will never be forgotten by Ben and Paul.
Jenny
Thursday, 7 May 2009
THE PILGRIMAGE - DAY 2
7 May
Quelle surprise! Ben rang mid-morning with the staggering news that they had already cycled 20 miles towards the designated over-night's resting place of Aumont-Aubrac, having just called a vital pedalling halt in order to visit a patisserie. The hostel at Saugues had sprung into life and activity at 6am and so did the pedallers - a shock to the system for both our boys.
47 miles cycled today, cycling through Aumont-Aubrac and arriving at Nasbinals which they describe as a very pretty village in the mountains. They are residing in a communal gite and sleeping in a communal dormitory. They had discovered that the hostel (gite) in Estaing, a few miles further down the route, is closed until 31 May and the hotels renowned for being expensive - so they opted for the most economic option of Nasbinals.
They described today's route as being absolutely beautiful - meadow upon meadow with carpets of wild daffodils and fritilleria (for the botanists amongst you) and large birds of prey (no decision as to whether they were eagles or buzzards - for the ornithologists amongst you).
No foul language uttered on the phone today with reference to the hills.
They are aspiring to reach Conques by tomorrow evening and, if they happen to do so, they will have achieved the previously planned 4 days' pedalling in 3 days. I think that I ought to leave saying 'well done' until tomorrow night.
The first 7 km of tomorrow's journey consists of one very long ascent into Estaing, followed by a glorious 26 km of descent. If they do reach Conques tomorrow evening, they will have cycled approximately 114 km in a day.
On a lower note - the weather forecast is predicting four days of rain and they both say that it will be a welcome relief, for a short period, but 4 days of rain is not what they require.
Jenny
Quelle surprise! Ben rang mid-morning with the staggering news that they had already cycled 20 miles towards the designated over-night's resting place of Aumont-Aubrac, having just called a vital pedalling halt in order to visit a patisserie. The hostel at Saugues had sprung into life and activity at 6am and so did the pedallers - a shock to the system for both our boys.
47 miles cycled today, cycling through Aumont-Aubrac and arriving at Nasbinals which they describe as a very pretty village in the mountains. They are residing in a communal gite and sleeping in a communal dormitory. They had discovered that the hostel (gite) in Estaing, a few miles further down the route, is closed until 31 May and the hotels renowned for being expensive - so they opted for the most economic option of Nasbinals.
They described today's route as being absolutely beautiful - meadow upon meadow with carpets of wild daffodils and fritilleria (for the botanists amongst you) and large birds of prey (no decision as to whether they were eagles or buzzards - for the ornithologists amongst you).
No foul language uttered on the phone today with reference to the hills.
They are aspiring to reach Conques by tomorrow evening and, if they happen to do so, they will have achieved the previously planned 4 days' pedalling in 3 days. I think that I ought to leave saying 'well done' until tomorrow night.
The first 7 km of tomorrow's journey consists of one very long ascent into Estaing, followed by a glorious 26 km of descent. If they do reach Conques tomorrow evening, they will have cycled approximately 114 km in a day.
On a lower note - the weather forecast is predicting four days of rain and they both say that it will be a welcome relief, for a short period, but 4 days of rain is not what they require.
Jenny
Wednesday, 6 May 2009
APOLOGIES - the post dated 5 May
Having received the first photographs of the journey from Paul, I assumed that they related to Le Puys en Velay. That was a mistaken assumption on my part.
The photograph of the Cathedral was in fact Rouen Cathedral (post of 22 April) and not Le Puys en Velay. The second photograph of Ben, at the base of the Statue, has been confirmed as authentic to Le Puys en Velay.
Whoops - faux pas!
Jenny
The photograph of the Cathedral was in fact Rouen Cathedral (post of 22 April) and not Le Puys en Velay. The second photograph of Ben, at the base of the Statue, has been confirmed as authentic to Le Puys en Velay.
Whoops - faux pas!
Jenny
OXYGEN REQUIRED! THE PILGRIMS' ROUTE - DAY ONE
6 May
Ben attended a Service in Le Puy en Velay Cathedral at 7am, joining a congregation of approximately 100 people - 80% of whom were Pilgrims. Nationalities of those assembled were French, German, American, Japanese and ONE BRITISH CITIZEN - our Benjamin! Well, he always has stood out like a sore thumb!
Paul and Ben departed from Le Puy en Velay at 10.30am and were immediately presented with a 2 hour pedalling climb which culminated at an altitude in excess of 1150 metres. Having descended at a greater speed than they ascended, they were ascending again for 1 hour 30 minutes and to the identical altitude.
By this time, having joked about the need for oxygen, they were concerned that they might actually require breathing aid.
Having achieved 26 miles and with aching legs and bodies, their decision was to throw down their cycles in Saugues because they were "ABSOLUTELY AND UTTERLY ........." (I have that on record from both pedallers down a telephone).
They are staying at a privately owned gite d'etape (hostel) where they are indulging in dinner, bed and breakfast for 27 Euros. The bathroom and loo are at the end of a long corridor - so their main concern is where they are going to pee during the night which makes me think that it will be a case of the nearest receptacle at hand. Oh Dear!
Tomorrow they will be cycling to higher altitudes than today!
Our thoughts will be with them
Jenny
Ben attended a Service in Le Puy en Velay Cathedral at 7am, joining a congregation of approximately 100 people - 80% of whom were Pilgrims. Nationalities of those assembled were French, German, American, Japanese and ONE BRITISH CITIZEN - our Benjamin! Well, he always has stood out like a sore thumb!
Paul and Ben departed from Le Puy en Velay at 10.30am and were immediately presented with a 2 hour pedalling climb which culminated at an altitude in excess of 1150 metres. Having descended at a greater speed than they ascended, they were ascending again for 1 hour 30 minutes and to the identical altitude.
By this time, having joked about the need for oxygen, they were concerned that they might actually require breathing aid.
Having achieved 26 miles and with aching legs and bodies, their decision was to throw down their cycles in Saugues because they were "ABSOLUTELY AND UTTERLY ........." (I have that on record from both pedallers down a telephone).
They are staying at a privately owned gite d'etape (hostel) where they are indulging in dinner, bed and breakfast for 27 Euros. The bathroom and loo are at the end of a long corridor - so their main concern is where they are going to pee during the night which makes me think that it will be a case of the nearest receptacle at hand. Oh Dear!
Tomorrow they will be cycling to higher altitudes than today!
Our thoughts will be with them
Jenny
Tuesday, 5 May 2009
LE PUY EN VELAY - A DAY OF REST
5 May
Rest day with a very acceptable hostelry as base camp. Le Patron et sa femme have produced some excellent food for the gourmet pedallers who have enjoyed an 'away day' from the cycles. Ben had his vehicle serviced, walked to and from the laundrette looking very chic - his waterproof trousers and jacket (all his clothing could have walked with him to the washing machines) being his only attire. Paul opted for the less expensive method of washing his clothes in the bathroom. Well, this was a 'first' as Ben has never visited a laundrette and washing machines have always been redundant in his eyes, but it looks like the boys are adjusting rapidly to a life of domestic bliss and harmony.
The Cathedral stands on a hill, overlooking the City. Towering, in it's magnificance and above all, is the statue of The Virgin and Child. 'The Statue of Notre Dame de France' took their breath away. Standing 16 metres high and mounted on the 757 metres high 'Corneille Rock', this amazing Statue was made out of 110 tonnes of melted-down cannons which were taken by the French and English at Sebastopol in the Crimean War. Having climbed the Rock, they arrived - slightly short of breath - inside the Statue and savoured the incredible views that stretch for miles across the city and surrounding countryside.
I am very envious of both our plucky pedallers today - but not envious of them tomorrow..... when it's back on the saddles with the exciting (?) and daunting (yes!) prospect of pedalling those looming giants - the Pyrenees.
Jenny
n.b. the photographs are courtesy of Paul, who found wi-fi. Ben remains in possession of a useless piece of equipment - his web netbook. However, he has been able to log on to the blog and says a big thank you to everyone for their messages. Keep them rolling in, folks! They are appreciated.
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